Panama Rocks Scenic Park
  • Home
  • Explore the Rocks
    • Hours, Admission, & FAQs
    • Treasure Hunt
    • Trail Map
    • Panama Rocks Paper Waiver
    • Human History
    • Geology
  • STAY FOR THE NIGHT
    • Glamp & Camp
    • Camp FAQ and Policies
    • Campground Rules
    • Campground Map
    • Special Offers
  • Festivals & Events
    • Wild America Nature Festival
    • Foliage Festival
    • Festival Vendor Info
  • Groups & Parties
  • Memberships
  • Photo & Video Gallery
  • Email Signup

HUMAN History

OF PANAMA ROCKS
Panama Rocks was established as a privately operated park in 1886, one year after the oldest State park in the United States (Niagara Falls State Park) opened to the public, but the human history dates back much longer!

The first signs of human activity at Panama Rocks are Mound Builder arrowheads found on property which date to 3,000-5,000 years ago. Mound builder peoples probably used the rock formation for shelter, to protect fires from the elements, and to hide from enemies. Wild game was abundant, and meat could be preserved into the summer in the ice and snow that lasted well into July in some of the deepest crevices.

The formations at Panama Rocks are believed to have been sacred land to the Erielhonan (Eriez or Erie) people and, while the area was used by robbers and counterfeiters in the mid-1800's, Panama Rocks quickly became a popular tourist attraction when the park was established. The hotel at Panama Rocks, which operated until about World War II, hosted celebrity guests such as James Ward Packard (of Packard Automobiles) and Mrs. Mina Miller Edison (Thomas Edison's second wife).

Illustration of Erie Settlement
Illustration of Erie Settlement

The ERIE PEOPLE

The Erie people lived in the area of Chautauqua County until the 1650’s. They are believed to have been an Iroquoian-speaking tribe who lived in long houses, surrounded by wooden palisade walls, and who grew the three sisters (corn, beans, and squash). Most of what we know of them is third-hand from Jesuit missionaries and French fur traders who learned of the Erie second-hand from neighboring tribes such as the Huron and Seneca.

Folklore claims they used poisoned arrows in warfare, but this is unverified, and they had few firearms. The name Erie is believed to be derived from the Iroquois word meaning “Long Tail” – potentially due to their use of cougar/bobcat/racoon tails OR association with Lake Erie and the Oniare of Iroquois legend.

Oniare is a dragon-like horned water serpent that lurked in the Great Lakes to capsize canoes and eat people (Lake Erie is known for capricious weather, which may have given way to legend of a temperamental beast). Its breath was said to be poisonous and Oniare is said to be the enemy of Hé-no, the Iroquois thunder spirit.

Artist Depiction of Oniare and Hé-no
Oniare and Hé-no
During the Iroquois War era (1641-1701) the Iroquois fought French-allied tribes for control of the lucrative fur trade and secured control over a vast area, including the Ohio River Valley and parts of the Great Lakes region, expanding from their original homeland in present-day New York.

Early in the conflict, in the winter of 1648-49, Huron tribes in neighboring areas were destroyed by the Iroquois. Many fleeing Huron are believe to have welcomed in and joined the Erie tribes. The Iroquois likely saw enemy Huron warriors joining and strengthening the Erie as a threat, and a series of conflicts ensued. Eventually, the Erie were wiped out as a society by 1656 and surviving tribe members were likely either absorbed by the Iroquois or fled the area.

From roughly 1656 to 1797 the Chautauqua County area was controlled by the Seneca and only ceded to the United States with the Treaty of Big Tree in 1797.


Historic notes from Panama Rocks on ownership.

EARLY EUROPEAN SETTLERS

The first European settlers in the area built a small community of log cabins on the hill West of the rock formation. Around 1800, when Jamestown had only one house at the rapids, Panama was a busy community. The Little Brokenstraw Creek was dammed and water-powered mills were built to power industry. During its heyday, Panama had six mills, four blacksmith shops, two carriage factories, the largest tannery in NY, a seven story ashery, fairgrounds and racetrack, a daily newspaper, stores, churches, hotels, and taverns.

In 1820 the land where Panama Rocks sits was sold to Elihu F. Wing by the Holland Land Company as part of a 50 acre parcel. Much of the forest surrounding the rocks was cut down and converted into farmland; however, the land right around the rock formations was never felled and is still considered an ancient forest. 
Historic news article detailing ownership of Panama Rocks in the 1800's
The U.S. Post Office in the area was established in 1826 and was the first, officially recorded use of the name "Panama." The first Postmaster General in Panama, Moses Cushman Marsh, is believed to have given Panama its name. Before settling in Chautauqua County, Mr. Marsh owned a trading company in Cuba and traveled through the Caribbean and Central America. He was impressed by the beauty of the rocks he found and told many people about them, becoming the first known "promoter" of this natural attraction. Because the formations reminded him of formations he saw during his travels through the Isthmus of Panama, he allegedly gave them the name "Panama Rocks."

Elihu passed away in 1837, survived by his wife Desire Wing, and around 1840 Panama Rocks was sold to Andrew B. Smith who built a brick hotel and tavern at the crossroads in the village of Panama.
 When his tavern was destroyed in a fire in 1875, Mr. Smith expanded the farmhouse by the rocks into a tavern.

When the local railway bypassed Panama (1850-1860), businesses in Panama suffered and population dwindled. In 1891 an article in the Jamestown Sun stated “Panama is one of the few towns in the country that has been injured by the railroads" and noted that "a half a Century ago this village was an important business centre [sic], rivaling the then village of Jamestown...”

Although the railway bypassed Panama, the rocks continued to be an important natural feature. Local legend has it that, when the Village of Panama was incorporate in 1865, multiple families who traced their ancestry back to early settlers and wanted the village to be named after them. Since the Panama Rocks were here before anyone else, the villagers agreed on the name "Panama" to keep the village in "harmony" (the Village of Panama is in the Town of Harmony).


STOLEN GOLD AND COUNTERFEITING 

There are many stories and folklore from the 19th Century surrounding Panama Rocks. One of the most famous is a tale of the lost gold of Panama Rocks. In the mid-1800's a courier carrying a shipment of gold along the Portage Trail to a bank in the village of Clymer was waylaid. The robbers stole the gold and supposedly ran into the rocks. It was believed they may have stashed the stolen gold in a cave or crevice and an organized search was begun but the gold was never found and the robbers were never caught. Supposedly a man who was part of the search disappeared shortly afterward and was suspected of being one of the robbers.
In 1949 Mr. H.J. Creel of Buffalo, whose wife grew up in Panama, wrote a letter to Mrs. Ollie Eddy, who owned Panama Rocks with her husband. In this letter, Mr. Creel goes into detail about what he remembered about the folklore of the time, from the Underground Railway to counterfeiting.

Some of Mr. Creel's claims are unlikely. While he says the rocks were called "The Hubbard's Rocks," George Hubbard did not purchase the property until 1886 and that the Village itself was named Panama after "Panama Rocks" nearly 20 years earlier in 1865 and the name was used as early as 1926. There is also little other evidence for Panama Rocks being part of the Underground Railroad, although it is possible and it did exist in the area. However, there is additional historic evidence that Panama Rocks was used in counterfeiting operations.

The following is an excerpt from an article titled “A Den of Counterfeiters Discovered in the Panama Rocks” from the Jamestown Journal (January 22, 1870): 

Listen and I will a tale unfold that shall make your blood stand on end and your hair run cold. Perhaps some of your readers have never heard of the natural curiosity, the Panama Rocks, and for their edification will I offer a few words in explanation. The rocks are situated at the southern extremity of the village. They abound in Caves, Caverns and Rocky recesses, which are fine places for robbers, counterfeiters and humbugs generally to conceal themselves. The Rocks are guarded by a massive grand structure, known as the “Rock House.” Its architecture is admirable. It needs to be seen to be appreciated. This, and a billiard saloon, are the only resorts that the “first young gentlemen” of our town can find. The “bon ton” is well represented at these places.

To proceed; last Wednesday evening as L.B. Sessions, a well-known, mighty hunter of these regions was pursuing his game through these Rocks, he was “muchly” astonished and slightly alarmed at beholding a bright light before him. Advancing rapidly he discovered a door cut in a solid rock, but so neatly covered with moss and vines that it had not been accidently left ajar what was beyond would probably never have been discovered. Peeping cautiously through he saw a goodly number of men bending over fires with curious instruments in their hands, and upon the table lay piles of what seemed to be greenbacks and coin. Mr. Sessions thinks there must have been six or eight of the men, and he knows it was folly to discover himself to them alone. Hastening towards the village he met friends to whom he delivered the startling intelligence, namely, that a band of counterfeiters were concealed in the rocks. A posse of men armed with guns, dogs and a Sheriff set out to make it lively for the rascals. But, on arriving at the cave and forcing open the door, not a soul could be seen. The prey had taken alarm from the intrusion and fled. Neither were any of the curious instruments to be found. Nothing but a few counterfeit greenbacks could be found, and these were eagerly pocketed. “But of all sad words of tongue or pen,” – but quotations are not the order of the day, for they are of no earthly use. They can not bring back the lost.

The town is in a perfect furor of excitement. The streets are crowded with people anxious to learn further particulars. It is hoped and believed that there are more greenbacks to be found in the cave and I believe a self-constituted committee is eagerly making further investigations. No trace of the culprits has yet been found, though every effort is being made to track them.


The small cavern at the end of a passageway, known today as Counterfeiter's Den, marks the location of the alleged location where the counterfeiting took place.

There are also other connections in local folklore linking Panama Rocks, and potentially former owner Andrew White, to counterfeiting. Mr. White was both the owner of Panama Rocks and a tavern in the Village during this period. This counterfeiting article was from 1870 and Mr. White's tavern in the Village burned down in the 1875, counterfeit money was reportedly found in the wreckage. According to an early History of Panama Rocks written in the late 1800's or early 1900's "concealed under the roof [of the destroyed tavern] were found many thousands of [counterfeit] dollars hidden there by the counterfeiters or their accomplices." If these accounts are true, counterfeiting occurred in Panama Rocks when Mr. White owned the property and thousands of counterfeit bills were also hidden in the tavern he owned in the village.

There are also oral stories of a tunnel running from the rocks to a tavern for counterfeiting. It would have been nearly impossible for a tunnel to run from the rocks to the center of the Village due to the low wetlands and creek between the rocks and the location of the former Village tavern; however, it would have been quite possible for a tunnel to lead from the "Rock House" at Panama Rocks deeper into the crevices. In fact, the cellar of the house at the rocks has a large concrete block that some allege was built to cover up a crevice.

Crevice leading to Counterfeiter's Den.
Entrance to Counterfeiter's Den

JOSEPH SMITH AND PANAMA ROCKS

One of the most interesting and only recently uncovered, pieces of folklore surrounding Panama Rocks involves Joseph Smith, the founder of the Church of Latter-day Saints (commonly known as the Mormon Church).

When the hotel at the Rocks was being renovated in 2014, a small number of documents dating to the early founding of the park was found tucked in the floorboards of the attic stairs ( A pamphlet from The Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints-  found in the Park Hotel Attic along with (1) a letter to George Hubbard from J. Stone Armstrong of the Ancient Order of United Workmen of the State of New York, (2) a letter to an unknown person from Nathaniel Hubbard, and (3) a newsletter of the Ancient Order of United Workmen of the State of New York). Unfortunately, these papers were not protected and were badly damaged.

In August 2021, Panama Rocks received a copy of a pamphlet titled "Some Early Mormon History from the Chautauqua Region and Environs" published by The Jamestown Branch, Erie District, Eastern Atlantic States Mission of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints when the Mormon Tabernacle Choir performed at Chautauqua Institution on August 25, 1967. This pamphlet details Joseph Smith's journey through the region and details two events related to Joseph Smith's presence at Panama Rocks:
  • Jamestown, N.Y. – A group of 200-300 Saints stopped here for several months en-route to Ohio in 1833-34, and were fenced off in an area on West Third Street. The Prophet Joseph Smith was arrested and put in stocks, from which he escaped by the aid of friends.
  • Panama Rocks, N.Y. – Here it is alleged, Joseph Smith came from Jamestown, staying at a tavern and hiding in the rocks for about two weeks. The scriptural names given to some points in the rocks are attributed to him – “Heavenly Golden Gate”, “Tower of Babel”, “Jacob’s Ladder”, “Paradise Alley”, etc.

This brochure from the Church of Latter-day Saints is the only evidence that we have connecting Joseph Smith to Panama Rocks; however, one more fantastic local folk story alleges that Joseph Smith buried the famous golden plates that were given by the Angel Moroni and translated into the Book of Mormon here at Panama Rocks. We have never seen any evidence of mysterious golden tablets at Panama Rocks, but perhaps those tales do connect back to an actual visit to Panama Rocks by Joseph Smith on his journey.

Church of Latter Day Saints pamphlet found at Panama Rocks with other historic documents related to George Hubbard (owner 1886-1918)
Church of Latter Day Saints pamphlet found at Panama Rocks with other historic documents related to George Hubbard (owner 1886-1918)
Cover and Back of Pamphlet titled
Cover and Back of Pamphlet titled "Some Early Mormon History from the Chautauqua Region and Environs" dated August 25, 1967
Interior of Pamphlet titled
Interior of Pamphlet titled "Some Early Mormon History from the Chautauqua Region and Environs" dated August 25, 1967

The ESTABLISHMENT OF PANAMA ROCKS AS A PARK

Early Advertisement for Panama Rocks circa 1886
In 1886 the rocks were purchased by Mr. George and Mrs. Charlotte Hubbard, and a Mr. Carver, who were the first to formally open Panama Rocks as a recreational area and promote the area to visitors. Not much is known about Mr. Carver, his involvement in Panama Rocks, or the tenure of his ownership; however, George and Charlotte Hubbard expanded the existing tavern into a larger summer hotel using oxen to haul a buildings from up the road. They also operated a stage coach (and later automobile) in order to transport sightseers from Chautauqua and the railway station in Ashville, NY about seven miles away.
Early Image of
Early Image of "Rock City Hotel" at Panama Rocks
By the turn-of-the-century, Panama Rocks had a reputation as a lovers retreat, as there were so many concealed niches in the rocks where guests could sneak away and avoid prying eyes. It became a popular destination for honeymooners, as documented by many of the photographs taken by Mr. Fred L. Yeager who owned a photography studio in Panama and took many of the historic images of Panama Rocks from this time period.

Well known Americans were known patrons of Panama Rocks. Mrs. Edison was a recorded guest of the hotel at Panama Rocks and on August 31, 1904, James Ward Packard married Elizabeth “Bess” Gilmer and they visited Panama Rocks when they honeymooned on Chautauqua Lake. During this trip the Packards made plans for their home in Lakewood, which began construction in 1911.

James Ward and Elizabeth Packard on their Honeymoon at Panama Rocks (1905)
James Ward and Elizabeth Packard on their Honeymoon at Panama Rocks (1905)
Stereoscope Photo of George Hubbard (right) and Fred Yeager (left).
Stereoscope Photo of George Hubbard (right) and Fred Yeager (left)
Advertisement for Auto Ride to Panama Rocks from the Chautauquan Daily (1915)
Advertisement for Auto Ride to Panama Rocks from the Chautauquan Daily (1915)

The DAVIS FAMILY (1918-1944)

In 1918 the Davis family of Panama started the Panama Rocks Company, Inc. and began to develop the scenic area by constructing a small access road (what remains of that road is now the lower part of the hiking trail) and added wooden stairways down into some deep, cavernous dens. David L. Davis and his son George Davis were considered the two main managers.
Picture


Before they owned Panama Rocks the Davis family had created a business called the Panama Traction Company in 1916 with the goal of expanding the railway from Ashville to Panama. We can assume that Panama Rocks played a part of their plan to develop the area into a regional attraction. Materials were purchased, land was leveled and construction began (you can still see the land where the railway was being build off of Baker Street Extension between Blockville and Ashville), but supply shortages during the start of World War One and the popular adoption of the automobile doomed the project. By 1921 the Traction Company had financial problems and it eventually went bankrupt.
Letter to the Panama Traction Company from the Clymer State Bank (1921)
Letter to the Panama Traction Company from the Clymer State Bank (1921)
Despite the failure of the Panama Traction Company, the Davis family found success with Panama Rocks. They built a large dining hall in 1920 and Mrs. Davis became well known for her cooking. Guests visited from Jamestown, Erie, Buffalo, and beyond to enjoy the Sunday chicken dinners, fried steak, and to see the rocks. The Rocks Hotel also became popular for business retreats, weddings, and social events.
Rocks Hotel (1920)
Rocks Hotel (1920)
Davis Dining Room (1920's)
Davis Dining Room (1920's)
Mr. Davis and Chef Cooking Steaks for the Davis Dining Room
Mr. Davis and Chef Cooking Steaks for the Davis Dining Room
Davis Dining Room Waitresses (1929)
Davis Dining Room Waitresses (1929)
In 1932 there was a "craze" in Panama when the rocks were found to contain gold; however it was soon found that the rocks only contained trace amounts and mining gold from the rock formations would cost more than the recovered gold was worth. In addition, according to New York State law precious metals found in the earth are property of the State and not of private landowners.

We are grateful these wonderful, ancient formations were not destroyed for short-term greed.


MID-CENTURY OWNERS OF PANAMA ROCKS

Panama Rocks struggled financially during World War Two and may have temporarily closed (information uncertain). In 1944 Panama Rocks was sold to Mr. Glen and Mrs. Ollie (née White) Eddy of Westfield, NY. Glen Eddy was a retired Welch's Grape executive who loved Panama Rocks and his wife was a wealthy heiress from Michigan. The Eddy's operated Panama Rocks until 1968, but unfortunately the hotel shut down around 1949 for unknown reasons.
Mr. Glen Eddy
Mr. Glen Eddy
Two different groups of local families owned Panama Rocks from 1968-1978: the Vanderkooi, McChesney and Nagel families, and the Wood, Wevers, and Reardon families. They repaired buildings, cleared brush, and created a lovely picnic area and a campground. With the Harmony Historical Society, they initiated an annual Colonial-Victorian festival on the 4th of July in 1973, which would run until 1999.
Owners Kids Exploring Panama Rocks (1969)
Owners Kids Exploring Panama Rocks (1969)
Panama Rocks Folk Festival
Panama Rocks Folk Festival

CURRENT OWNERS OF PANAMA ROCKS

In 1979, the park was sold to Craig and Sandra Weston. They have further repaired and renovated the buildings and cared for the grounds. The Weston's continued the early American festival, which they renamed the 'Panama Rocks Folk Fair'. They expanded the festival to three days, and it became a major event. The Folk Fair became recognized and was listed in the national publication, 'Best Festivals Mid-Atlantic States'. It featured a large number of exhibits & demonstrations of traditional arts & crafts, American Indian and frontier exhibits, performances of Living History, bluegrass & acoustic music, foods, etc.
Craig and Sandra Weston (1979)
Craig and Sandra Weston (1979)
From 1983-85, the foundation of the old hotel building was rebuilt. The stone foundation was dug deeper and the stones were reset. Many of the beams on top of the stone were replaced. The existing front porch had deteriorated, and also, needed to be removed in order to work on the part of the foundation along the front of the building. The new porch was installed with pressure treated deck, and a roof with a better pitch. The old porch was not the original, and had only run halfway along the front of the building. The new porch that was constructed was extended to the full length of the building. In September of 2009, one side of the maintenance barn was resided. At that time, the foundation sills were found to be decaying, and were replaced.

In May of 2010, the recreation hall foundation was rebuilt, removing all of the decayed beams underneath, and replacing them with pressure treated beams.  While this construction was under way, an old hitching post made of stone, and most likely dating to the late 1800's, was found underneath the building. It is now reset near the entrance to the recreation building.

Craig and Sandi's son, Jonathan, took over management of Panama Rocks in 2014 with his wife Holly. Jonathan and Holly have added two annual festivals (the Wild America Nature Festival in 2017 and the Panama Rocks Foliage Festival in 2022), moved the park office to the original barn, and opened a glamping campground in 2023.

HISTORIC PHOTO GALLERY

Many of the older pictures and post cards of Panama Rocks were taken by Fred L. Yeager (1872-1930). Mr. Yeager was a photographer who was well known for his real photo postcards of Panama Rocks. His work also includes photos taken in and around his hometown of Columbus, Pennsylvania.

The hand-colored post cards are circa 1908-1915 and published by Albert Wilson of Buffalo, NY. Wilson was a druggist who resided on Crescent Avenue near Delaware Park, and published postcards of Buffalo and Western New York communities. Wilson’s cards were manufactured in Germany, and usually featured original photographic views. Making hand tinted card was very labor intensive and unhealthy. Mostly women artists sat in rows while the postcards were passed down “assembly line” style. Each was responsible for a particular color, and workers would wet the tip of their brush, usually cotton covered, with their lips as they worked, slowly poisoning the artists. The arrival of color photography and the health issues associated with the hand tinted cards resulted in their demise in the 1930’s. WWI brought the supply of postcards from Germany to the United States to an end.



Picture

Contact Us

716-703-0021

Location

11 Rock Hill Road
​Panama, NY 14767

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS!

Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Looking for more things to do in Chautauqua County? Visit TourChautauqua.com!
Privacy Policy
  • Home
  • Explore the Rocks
    • Hours, Admission, & FAQs
    • Treasure Hunt
    • Trail Map
    • Panama Rocks Paper Waiver
    • Human History
    • Geology
  • STAY FOR THE NIGHT
    • Glamp & Camp
    • Camp FAQ and Policies
    • Campground Rules
    • Campground Map
    • Special Offers
  • Festivals & Events
    • Wild America Nature Festival
    • Foliage Festival
    • Festival Vendor Info
  • Groups & Parties
  • Memberships
  • Photo & Video Gallery
  • Email Signup